Hi,

I've been wondering this for a little while now and from my internet research;

Code 2 = uneconomical to repair (repairs may be minor but other costs such as car rental make the repair uneconomical for insurance companies)
Code 3 = Permanently unfit for use (write-off, major structural damage).

However I have heard people saying that a Code 2 is nothing to worry about and is just a normal used car whereas a Code 3 is a write-off.

Can anyone shed some light on this? Also how do you find out if a car is "coded"?

Cheers

semaj wrote:Code 3 = uneconomical to repair (repairs may be minor but other costs such as car rental make the repair uneconomical for insurance companies)
Code 4 = Permanently unfit for use (write-off, major structural damage).

fixed that

code 2 is every normally licensed car

code 1 - Brand New
code 2 - Used
code 3 - rebuild
code 4 - breaker (car must be broken up as spares but is sold as a complete car) normally used at Hillbank, Bonnerts etc

I always thought there was a code for stolen cars as well. I assume I am incorrect?

iceblue wrote:I always thought there was a code for stolen cars as well. I assume I am incorrect?

think that might be code 3 hey.someone correct me if im wrong

The codes (as stated by Velofox)are mostly given/recommended by the insurance assessor upon inspection and they uses various circumstances/criteria such as , but not limited to, type of car, age of car, replacement value, repair cost (if damaged), if it got recovered before or after payout( if stolen/hijacked) , clients policy, etc. I have seen an A8 with ‘minor fender damages’ classified as code 4 and I’ve seen a total wreck still classified as code 2. Cars burnt badly tend to end up as code 4.

peeryus wrote:

iceblue wrote:I always thought there was a code for stolen cars as well. I assume I am incorrect?

think that might be code 3 hey.someone correct me if im wrong

Stolen cars can be both code 2 and code 3. It depends on the air temp and direction of the moon relative to the sun at the time of assessment..

If a vehicle is stolen and recovered, then some may get the engine/chassis number re-stamp with the so-called SAPVIN numbers or AAPV numbers ,if the police require this, or if the numbers were tampered with. This won’t affect the ‘code’.

If the insurance company paid the claim before it was recovered then, normally, the vehicle would have been scrapped and will need to be registered as a Code 3 vehicle. Otherwise they remain as a code 2 (stolen & recovered). Some insurance company will classify a car as code 2(stolen & recovered) if there was an attempt to steal it (eg. interfering with the ignition)

F.


p.s: All the above said is purely from my personal understanding of the system. I stand to be corrected.

code 3 is an insurance write off. I had a corsa that in the factory a tyre fell on the roof and needed to be repainted. It was an insurance write off but had 0km on the clock.

Stolen and recovered is also code 3. Usually it specifies stolen or recovered or rebuild.

Some stolen and recovered cars are still code 2, no one will ever know once they leave the auction house.

If a car is stolen and recovered just make sure you get the police clearance with the sale else it's a real mission to get it cleared and a blind moment if you get pulled off in a road block and arrested because the car is listed as stolen.