1.8 20v NA Throttle body (APG) (Electric. No cable)

[Deamo]

Hey guys this is the first time posting on the forum, but I have already searched everywhere for information

I require a throttle body for my car, I'm currently using a 1.8T throttle body as it fit and plugs in, but it's missing the required vacuum line connectors and I've had them blocked off. I need this car to move between work and home as most other people do.

So I've scoured the web for a throttle and I just can't find one. I've thought of doing the conversion to a cable throttle as it's just better overall, but I have no experience or knowledge with doing so.

Today I finally got a price for the throttle from some agent and they quoted me R23 500

I can install ITB's for that price
I can buy an entire damn engine for spare parts with that price.

I'm wondering if I can drill holes into the throttle and just make the connectors myself.

PLEASE ANYONE... HELP

[Ashveer03]

What are the vacuum lines required used for? Are they causing any issues?

The transverse 1.8T only has one port for the evap. Not sure on the NA models, maybe u can just tap it into one of the intake ports since the ports are after the throttle plate anyways..?

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[Deamo]

I've no idea what these vacuum lines are for. I rerouted the brake booster and the fuel pressure regulator to the intake, but the other two pipes I have literally no idea what they're for so I blocked 'em off.

I'm not really sure it's the throttle to be honest, I'm kind of grasping at straws here.
When the car heats up, the throttle is basically useless. It gives the same amount of fuel or air. The car stutters

I've checked the pressure from the pump and I've checked the plugs. The car is running lean (just overhauled the engine) so I want to check my injectors this weekend, but I'd also just like to rule out anything else while I'm searching for the fault.

I don't think it's my coil pack, because the plugs weren't wet, and it only happens when throttle is applied

The car idles fine for like 5 minutes and then it dips almost to 0 revs and then goes back up to idle and then 5 minutes again.

Take note I work on computers, I'm not a mechanic. I'm just poor as hell

[Ashveer03]

Those could be coolant pipes. Confirm if they are, if so join them together don't block it off.

U could have a timing problem. Verify cam to cam timing, thats the chain in the back of the head.

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[Deamo]

Yeah there is one coolant pipe, that came from a T connector. I swapped the T connector with a standard hose to hose fitting to bypass the coolant pipe, but there are still 2 other vacuum lines (plus the egr that's also blocked off)

Yeah timing is good, supposed to be 16 teeth from the marks and it is exactly 16 teeth

I didn't do it myself. I asked a family friend who does 4x4 work as a hobby to come help me with it. He explained everything as he did everything so technically he didn't help, he did everything

[Ashveer03]

That's a weird issue bud, unfortunately, offhand I don't know of anything else that could cause your problem. With the engine just being overhauled, theres alot of variables.

What happened to the original tb?

Since it runs when it's cold, and not when warm it could also be O2 sensor related.
Engines generally run on a closed loop when cold (fixed map), and open loop when warm (requires reading from O2 sensor).
It should throw a fault code for that.

What fault codes is it giving?

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[PapaJo]

The APG code Audi motor, is a simple and reliable power unit and rarely worries its owners until they start to have the following issues:

The culprit of the floating engine speed is the contamination of the injectors or throttle.
Also, the vacuum regulator of the intake manifold flaps intermittently sticks.
In terms of electrics, lambda probes, a coolant temperature sensor, and a mass air flow sensor most often fail here.
A capricious crankcase ventilation system can throw a lot of problems.

Try to find a vacuum diagram for that motor.

I bet the vacuum regulator on the intake manifold is where your main issue is coming from.