Least intrusive, yet still effective way of removing light aerosol overspray.
Clay should sort that out bud
zane.mk1 wrote:So continuing on from the previous thread, I haven't polished or waxed my car since taking ownership earlier this year.
planning on doing this month end.
I am planning on using, clay magic, megs. ultimate compound, autoglym srp, collinite #845, apc for various areas and brushes and mf products.
tyres and shampoo will be glossworx.
any advice on other products it could use to maybe get better results with?
color is black magic.
Your plan sounds good.
I would try and wait at least 12 hours between your application of SRP and 845. In fact, you may even want to apply SRP at the end of your detail, then wait until your next wash/dry and apply collinite then. This will ensure the SRP has time to cure and the 845 doesn't actually land up removing the SRP.
tx Lawrence, I will stick to the plan then and look into getting some AIO at a later stage as well.
The products I have acquired thus far is based on reviews from you guys and other forums, will see how it works for me, buy some other products, test some more to get a good feel for paint type, product type, application etc. you know the drill.
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SRP has a sealant in it hence waiting for it to cure/gas out/bond/link in theory yeah? But detailers worldwide just top it with a wax or sealant instantly, your guys thoughts on this?
Ex '02 Citi.Com 20VT K04
Ex '12 GTI 6 Candy White,Manual,Revo STG 2, 250whp 460nm KAR pump fuel only.
I emailed him after watching this, and he really is a genuine guy, typed up an awesome informative email and even offered some samples of his products.
Zubair wrote:@ Lawrence, point taken, hypothetically, can I use the Menz 4000 as its not too harsh then follow by SRP, instead of using Megs CW for cut?
zane.mk1 wrote:So continuing on from the previous thread, I haven't polished or waxed my car since taking ownership earlier this year.
planning on doing this month end.
I am planning on using, clay magic, megs. ultimate compound, autoglym srp, collinite #845, apc for various areas and brushes and mf products.
tyres and shampoo will be glossworx.
any advice on other products it could use to maybe get better results with?
color is black magic.
ultimate compound - are you using this by hand or machine? What would you like to achieve by using this product?
I'd stay away from this on a black car, the non DAT formulation means that the particles remain one size, so it's ideal for a heavy cut, but you'd need to refine with a finer compound afterward.
If you're doing this by hand, i'd suggest skipping the compound stage and going straight to the AIO, either AF tripple or autoglym SRP.
Glossworx tyres(do you mean wheel cleaner?) - Why not invest in a better cleaner since it's your personal car?
Both of these can be diluted 1:1 so you get more out of the product.
For now this will be done by hand, if I can get my polisher order and delivered soon, it will be otherwise. Just need to check financing.
Ultimate compound will be used for removing swirls, scratches etc.
SRP to get a nice shiney wet look finish
The previous owner tried cleaning the wheels with a steel brush , so it will be repainted in zircon silver(love this color)
It will just be cleaned with apc.
tires will be dressed with glossworx.
tx
Zubair wrote:@ Lawrence, point taken, hypothetically, can I use the Menz 4000 as its not too harsh then follow by SRP, instead of using Megs CW for cut?
Go with the SRP first and then see from there..
SRP is very underrated..
U know sometimes the answer is quite simple, SRP alone might just work, infact paints quite good so am certain it will followed by lsp, sometimes we overthink things, well atleast I do
Ex '02 Citi.Com 20VT K04
Ex '12 GTI 6 Candy White,Manual,Revo STG 2, 250whp 460nm KAR pump fuel only.
Zubair wrote:@ Lawrence, point taken, hypothetically, can I use the Menz 4000 as its not too harsh then follow by SRP, instead of using Megs CW for cut?
Go with the SRP first and then see from there..
SRP is very underrated..
U know sometimes the answer is quite simple, SRP alone might just work, infact paints quite good so am certain it will followed by lsp, sometimes we overthink things, well atleast I do
Its natural to over think I reckon but as long as we dont completely disregard the simple stuff and its in the simple stuff we most often find our solutions..
Kyle wrote:He really goes in deth with his explanations.
I emailed him after watching this, and he really is a genuine guy, typed up an awesome informative email and even offered some samples of his products.
Kyle wrote:He really goes in deth with his explanations.
I emailed him after watching this, and he really is a genuine guy, typed up an awesome informative email and even offered some samples of his products.
Did you take him up on the offer..??
Awesome products but not viable for us to use because shipping...
pyro-zn wrote:What exactly is "Glaze"? Dealership says my car has been glazed and I have to use the special shampoo for about two months so no Meguiars...
Same thing happened to me
They basically give you their own branded shampoo so that they can make more money off you... That shampoo is horrid btw.
You should be fine using any good quality shampoo bud, does the brochure say you can get a free top up of the sealant?
Yeah those Shampoos are terrible, I've always used the Meguiars gold class ...
I'm not sure about the sealant I'll check and reply ...
Use that shampoo to clean the driveway or something
What does the megs shampoo go for these days anyway?
No free top up of sealant, just the shampoo and leather care cream ... I paid about 90 bucks for the Gold Class shampoo. Only uses a few drops, like saanlight and waaataaa.
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Always follow the manufacturer's recommendation in terms of dilution ratios. People often tend to under-dilute in the belief that a stronger mix will clean better. In fact, all it will do is degrade your LSP quicker.
If the shampoo you are using is no strong enough at the recommended dilution ratio, you may need a better shampoo.
By the same token, over-diluting it will provide less lubricity and cleaning power.
Always add the required amount of water, then add the shampoo - this ensure the correct mix. Do it the other way around and you land up with a bucket mostly filled with suds and an under-diluted solution of shampoo.
lawrence wrote:Talking about shampoo - here's a tip.
Always follow the manufacturer's recommendation in terms of dilution ratios. People often tend to under-dilute in the belief that a stronger mix will clean better. In fact, all it will do is degrade your LSP quicker.
If the shampoo you are using is no strong enough at the recommended dilution ratio, you may need a better shampoo.
By the same token, over-diluting it will provide less lubricity and cleaning power.
Always add the required amount of water, then add the shampoo - this ensure the correct mix. Do it the other way around and you land up with a bucket mostly filled with suds and an under-diluted solution of shampoo.