Golf Mk1 1.4i splined collar stuck on streering column

[buttle]

Hi there,
I cannot get the splined collar of the steering column. The centre nut and steering wheel comes off easily enough but the REST!!!

It appears to be stuck onto the taper. I have used HEAT. I have used a gear puller (not enough room - i have even under cut the pulling teeth Is there some trick to getting the collar off the shaft????



I need to remove the bracket that the clutch and brake pedals are attached to for a welding repair and the steering shaft housing is part of that bracket.
Thanks in advance guys

[EX-DOHCTOR]

Normally one the nut and washer are off you can wobble the steering wheel loose and it comes off.

Have you disconnected the steering column from the steering rack in the engine bay?

You should be able to remove the entire column with the steering wheel still attached once you've disconnected from the steering rack.

[buttle]

sorry man... it is the collar behind the wheel that I am trying to get off! i have just updated my original post

[buttle]

SAME JOB - BIGGER PROBLEM!!

I'v decided to leave the collar on the steering shaft. I can remove the whole thing... BUT NOW!!!!

there are two bolts that attach an inverted saddle that holds the front of the steering column up just behind the instrument paddle clusters.

THERE ARE NO SLOTS IN THEM. no slots, no star, no allen holes, no Torx holes. Looks like they have beeb SOLDERED CLOSED!!!!! has anyone else seen THIS. Im looking at a YT video and there are 2 bog standard allen head bolts in the same place!



is there something that I am missing or do I just have sh1t 4 brains... WTF VOLKSWAGEN???? did I maybe forget to pickup the Special Tool for removing HEADLESS SCREWS from Unobtainium.com?? I really am about to drive this thing into the Braamfontein Spruit and call an Uber

[EX-DOHCTOR]

OK so I am still confused, if the aim is to remove the steering column and bracket why not just leave the collar in place?
Are you replacing the steering column as well?

[buttle]

Yes, that is exactly what I have decided to do...

I am not replacing the steering column... I am leaving the collar attached to the shaft and going to remove the clutch and brake pedal junction with the shaft inside the housing.

[Jetta2]

Those bolts are called shear bolts, the holes or slots are not soldered closed.
The head where a spanner, socket or Allen wrench fits on breaks off at a specific torque when they are tightened.

Check here: https://www.fastenright.com/products/se ... hear-bolts

[buttle]

SAME JOB - BIGGER PROBLEM!!

I'v decided to leave the collar on the steering shaft. I can remove the whole thing... BUT NOW!!!!


so I've managed to get the entire junction out the car. I got the two pain in the arse bolts out with EAZY OUTS and the universal just popped off the bottom of the steering column with a bit of assistance from a long socket extension and a hammer...

now to clean the paint off to weld and then put it all back together....
and here are some pics in case you have never seen this issue before...
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[buttle]

Those bolts are called shear bolts, the holes or slots are not soldered closed.
The head where a spanner, socket or Allen wrench fits on breaks off at a specific torque when they are tightened.

Check here: https://www.fastenright.com/products/se ... hear-bolts

Yeh, that did cross my mind but the tops were absolutely clean and very smooth... I have seen shear bolts before... they usually have a small 'torn' area... if so, WHY on this EARTH would VW assemble with these bastards???

[EX-DOHCTOR]

Wowee! How did that damage happen?

For some reason I was thinking you wanted to weld the firewall where the clutch cable goes through

[buttle]

WOW!!! Nooit Bru... I've NEVER!!!!
So, for the last 6 months my gears have been grating a bit more than usual. Especially going into reverse... so I took up the slack on the box side of the cable. THen a week later, same KAK. In December I was adjusting every 2 days and the grating gears would always return.

So yesterday my foot and my heart just sank all the way to the floor. finis. Fortunately only about 5km from home but in traffic so I got my friend to tow me home and only then realized what had happened.

Took me the WHOLE day today to dismantle everything, get to these fasteners to take the brake and clutch pivot bracket out, weld up the cracks and re-install everything and make sure there were NO bolts or washers lying on the floor afterwards!

FInally at 18:15, I managed to go around the block at 320kph to check that everything was in the correct place.

what a fkn day

[PapaJo]

320kph????????

Fast typo!!!!!

Well done on the repairs.

[buttle]

ja ... i usually try and get above 250kph after mechanical repairs (for mechanical stress testing ONLY) coz there is NO WAY i will go over that on the road!

[Rudi46]

Just a note if you anybody wants to remove the collar, You heat the collar up with a lot of heat and then use hammer and Chisel and hit that thing of.
Some of them are easy then you get these ones that will not come off. This needs to be removed also when changing the bracket that the stalks bolt on. and also the ignition sit in. When you go from old school stalks to new school this is also needed to be changed.
Heat unfortunate destroys the plastic sleeve bushing that takes away the play on column and you will need to replace it.

[buggyfan]

I find a size 27 ring spanner and a small 2 legged puller works best to remove the collar.

[buttle]

I find a size 27 ring spanner and a small 2 legged puller works best to remove the collar.

I bought a three jaw puller from ADENDORF (I love them) and undercut the teeth to bite properly AND STILL no way! I eventually gave up.

[buttle]

Just a note if you anybody wants to remove the collar, You heat the collar up with a lot of heat and then use hammer and Chisel and hit that thing of.
Some of them are easy then you get these ones that will not come off. This needs to be removed also when changing the stalks.

Heat unfortunate destroys the plastic sleeve bushing that takes away the play on column and you will need to replace it.

please excuse my ignorance... what do you mean by the stalks?? do you mean the torus shaped switching cluster for the indicator and the wipers and high-beam? mine uncrews from a cast bracket and comes off over the %&^%&*# collar

and... my steering shaft just fell out of the plastic covered bearings and tube (gave me an opportunity to repack the BBs with grease) so maybe when I replace my 'weld job' with a good USED bracket I will have another GO at blikseming the vieslikke collar off

[buttle]

does anyone have a FAVORITE Golf Mk1 USED SPARES dealer in Jhb or Gauteng??

I phoned three different places and got complete fkn IDIOTS on the line ... I'm in Randburg

[Rudi46]

Just a note if you anybody wants to remove the collar, You heat the collar up with a lot of heat and then use hammer and Chisel and hit that thing of.
Some of them are easy then you get these ones that will not come off. This needs to be removed also when changing the stalks.

Heat unfortunate destroys the plastic sleeve bushing that takes away the play on column and you will need to replace it.

please excuse my ignorance... what do you mean by the stalks?? do you mean the torus shaped switching cluster for the indicator and the wipers and high-beam? mine uncrews from a cast bracket and comes off over the %&^%&*# collar

and... my steering shaft just fell out of the plastic covered bearings and tube (gave me an opportunity to repack the BBs with grease) so maybe when I replace my 'weld job' with a good USED bracket I will have another GO at blikseming the vieslikke collar off

Sorry no my mistake, I had to remove the bracket the stalks bolt on to(Yes the indicator and Wipers one). So I had to remove that we do not speak of.
Almost broke back glass when it came of with the hammer.

Will correct post now.