Mazda 323 200e - shock, and disk change

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Belix
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Mazda 323 200e - shock, and disk change

Post by Belix »

Greeting all
Yes, this aint a mazda forum - I've tried to register on mazdaownersclubsa without success.

Waiting for some tyres for the passat, i'm using the MIL's mazda 323 200e. Amoungst other issues I've picked up, the brake disks are badly warped.

Apparently changing the disks is no simple matter, I've heard that I need to remove the hub, which mean the bearing is affected, and usually changed, which needs a press, which I don't have.
Anyone have any experience with changing disks on a 200e?
Last edited by Belix on Tue Aug 10, 2021 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by ICE King »

Hi

This is the biggest hate I have for my Mazda and is no simple task of just removing a screw.

When changing disc's on a Mazda , you'll need to buy new bearing's and suggest you buy a new hub while you at it.

The Hub,disc and bearing is pressed into the stub axle.

I take mine to a suspension/brake shop to be done instead, could easily damage the new bearing if done incorrectly.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by Belix »

Hmmm, ok thanks for the confirmation. Got a R5K estimate from the local brake place, I guess that explains why.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by mellos »

Belix wrote:Hmmm, ok thanks for the confirmation. Got a R5K estimate from the local brake place, I guess that explains why.
Hi exhaust places sometimes have these hydraulic presses so check with them as well maybe it will work out cheaper

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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by missioner »

Belix wrote:Greeting all
Yes, this aint a mazda forum - I've tried to register on mazdaownersclubsa without success.

Waiting for some tyres for the passat, i'm using the MIL's mazda 323 200e. Amoungst other issues I've picked up, the brake disks are badly warped.

Apparently changing the disks is no simple matter, I've heard that I need to remove the hub, which mean the bearing is affected, and usually changed, which needs a press, which I don't have.
Anyone have any experience with changing disks on a 200e?
Yup true story.

Just before you go and throw tonnes of cash at the problem, ask around the brake shops for on car skimming of discs.

If there is still sufficient meat on the disc, having them machined will solve the vibration when braking.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by Belix »

Was thinking of skimming - it does not seem like a lot of brake shops do skimming any more? A lot of mobile one-man-co come up on google, I see.
Any recommendations?
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by mellos »

Belix wrote:Was thinking of skimming - it does not seem like a lot of brake shops do skimming any more? A lot of mobile one-man-co come up on google, I see.
Any recommendations?
I noticed that as well I took my disc's in to be skimmed and they rather opted to sell me a new set of disc's instead of skimming and my disc's were never skimmed before

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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by ICE King »

Skimming and the price of new disc is more or less the same hence why it's suggested to rather buy new disc.

Also if your current disc/rotor has a lip then it's time for new ones , otherwise you'll have some travel on your brake pedal.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by missioner »

Belix wrote:Was thinking of skimming - it does not seem like a lot of brake shops do skimming any more? A lot of mobile one-man-co come up on google, I see.
Any recommendations?
East Rand, Graaf brakes. Branch in Kempton and Boksburg.

They do have mobile guys and the price is reasonable. They will do the job without stripping the whole car to pieces and also check the condition of the discs to ensure that they are within tolerance.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

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ICE King wrote:Skimming and the price of new disc is more or less the same hence why it's suggested to rather buy new disc.

Also if your current disc/rotor has a lip then it's time for new ones , otherwise you'll have some travel on your brake pedal.
The caliper adjusts for the change in thickness.

Loose bearings and worn shoes and drums cause pedal travel.

One time a customer drove his van into the shop, had a noise when braking otherwise all was normal. Opened the wheels to look and what had remained of the brake pad had fallen out of the car because the disc was so thin. The cooling fins in the center of the disc were rubbing on the caliper piston. The guy hadn't realised how bad his brakes were as he'd just come back from a long trip the previous day. Lucky guy.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by Belix »

Thanks Missioner, will give them a try
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by ICE King »

missioner wrote: Wed Jan 29, 2020 10:08 am
ICE King wrote:Skimming and the price of new disc is more or less the same hence why it's suggested to rather buy new disc.

Also if your current disc/rotor has a lip then it's time for new ones , otherwise you'll have some travel on your brake pedal.
The caliper adjusts for the change in thickness.

Loose bearings and worn shoes and drums cause pedal travel.

One time a customer drove his van into the shop, had a noise when braking otherwise all was normal. Opened the wheels to look and what had remained of the brake pad had fallen out of the car because the disc was so thin. The cooling fins in the center of the disc were rubbing on the caliper piston. The guy hadn't realised how bad his brakes were as he'd just come back from a long trip the previous day. Lucky guy.
True , you're correct , and to add the slider pins could be sticky too.

Damn Lucky Guy , It scary just thinking of driving a car and having no idea if the brakes is good or not. ignorance is bliss lol
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by Belix »

Anyone know where you can buy mazda parts? I'm thinking of trying to change the disks/bearings myself. Car is not being used anyway, and I'll be pleased if I can manage.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

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Belix wrote:Anyone know where you can buy mazda parts? I'm thinking of trying to change the disks/bearings myself. Car is not being used anyway, and I'll be pleased if I can manage.
AutoZone, Midas should both stock the ferodo branded parts.

Deselra are also ok quality wise.

Wheel bearings are required for this job. They are cup and cone type and are installed similarly to those in the drums. A press can be rigged up with some steel plates and some 16 or 20mm threaded rod and some nuts to install the hub. I consider a hub consumable these days. They have become relatively cheap and readily available.

If you get stuck on me for my number.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by Belix »

missioner wrote:AutoZone, Midas should both stock the ferodo branded parts.

Deselra are also ok quality wise.

Wheel bearings are required for this job. They are cup and cone type and are installed similarly to those in the drums. A press can be rigged up with some steel plates and some 16 or 20mm threaded rod and some nuts to install the hub. I consider a hub consumable these days. They have become relatively cheap and readily available.

If you get stuck on me for my number.
Cheers mate, much appreciated.
Of course I don’t have a press, will have to see about that, will be second time I’ve needed one.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - disk change

Post by missioner »

Belix wrote:
missioner wrote:AutoZone, Midas should both stock the ferodo branded parts.

Deselra are also ok quality wise.

Wheel bearings are required for this job. They are cup and cone type and are installed similarly to those in the drums. A press can be rigged up with some steel plates and some 16 or 20mm threaded rod and some nuts to install the hub. I consider a hub consumable these days. They have become relatively cheap and readily available.

If you get stuck on me for my number.
Cheers mate, much appreciated.
Of course I don’t have a press, will have to see about that, will be second time I’ve needed one.
Taking the whole mess apart is nothing a hammer (4lbs) can't fix. It's the reassembly part.

This type of thing will work and is cheap to put together at a fastener shop.Image
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Mazda 323 200e - shock, and disk change

Post by Belix »

OK, made a start on this...
First issue found - the top nut on the shock strut just spins with the shock. Manual says to turn it off a few turns before using the spring compressors, but even without them, it just turns. and there is no inset to be able to hold it with an allan key, or screwdriver.
The bolt has one flattened side, but I can't see what tool would go in there to hold it while you undo the nut...
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - shock, and disk change

Post by missioner »

Get the biggest vise-grips you have, squeeze them onto the shaft bellow the top mount and go from there.

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Re: Mazda 323 200e - shock, and disk change

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missioner wrote:Get the biggest vise-grips you have, squeeze them onto the shaft bellow the top mount and go from there.

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Thanks Missioner, as always, you are an asset to this forum! Ok, thought there was some more elegant way, I hope I can tighten it up again without having to resort to the same method…I assume leaving vice grip marks on the new shock shaft will not help keep the seal long.

Managed to get the hub and knuckle apart quite easy, and the crappy puller I have even managed to pull the bearing off the hub, so I could use the old hub. But will probably just use the new ones.
I assumed leaving the old races in is a no no, at least they were no trouble getting out.

Now the fun part getting the new races into the knuckle and then the hub back into the knuckle…

On a separate note, I see I managed to leave my torque wrench tensioned up to 150Nm from when I last used it, so i want to check it is calibrated correctly. What a faff.
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Re: Mazda 323 200e - shock, and disk change

Post by Belix »

Thanks Missioner, using a huge bolt and nut, I was able to get the new bearings on without much fuss.
Resorted to buying a impact wrench to try get the shock nut off, and that worked too.

Of course things not everything can go easy, so the tie rod end bolt seems to be threaded. It was really easy to get out - I can’t recall if I hit it with a hammer or not, but I know to put the nut on before hammering it so not sure how that happened. Probably easiest just to buy a new tie rod end…
And a second bottle of brake fluid has disappeared down the reservoir, but I have yet to find a leak anywhere…
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