Fuel system info
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Fuel system info
Good day everyone ,
Quick one , are all the injectors the same size on the MPI golf's (2008 specifically) ?
Would I need to upgrade injectors when going from a 1.4 to a 1.8?
I know I'd need a piggy back or stand alone to change parameters for the 1.8. I was think SMT-6?
Also I'm sure the fuel injection intake manifold would bolt straight onto a carb head ,is this correct?
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Quick one , are all the injectors the same size on the MPI golf's (2008 specifically) ?
Would I need to upgrade injectors when going from a 1.4 to a 1.8?
I know I'd need a piggy back or stand alone to change parameters for the 1.8. I was think SMT-6?
Also I'm sure the fuel injection intake manifold would bolt straight onto a carb head ,is this correct?
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- Kyle28rsa
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Re: Fuel system info
As far as i know the injectors are the same (could be wrong) as for the manifold. You would need an adapter plate to fit a fi intake on a carb head. As the fi head is pear shaped and the carb is round
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Re: Fuel system info
The adaptor plate is not an issue...
Thanks for the feedback
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Thanks for the feedback
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Re: Fuel system info
Hi guys , okay so I just wanted to ask something about ECU's , more specifically the SMT8T ( I thought perfect power still sells smt6) and the dicktator STD.
Basically I want to know which would be the better option for a budget ,first time install? I'm also looking at flexibility of the system, after sales support ,any added extra's that I might need to get with the ecu.
I saw some previous posts about comparisons of the different local choices for an aftermarket ecu/piggyback. But the problem is they're quite outdated.
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Basically I want to know which would be the better option for a budget ,first time install? I'm also looking at flexibility of the system, after sales support ,any added extra's that I might need to get with the ecu.
I saw some previous posts about comparisons of the different local choices for an aftermarket ecu/piggyback. But the problem is they're quite outdated.
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Re: Fuel system info
SMT8 is a piggyback
Dicktator is a stand alone ECU.
They not like for like in comparisons.
I doubt piggybacks are sold on their own ( probably only through a dealer who is the installer)
Dicktator can be DIY installed. but requires understanding of setting the trigger angles and so on to get started.
You mention MPI, MPI systems did come with issues way back when people used to put unchips on them, not sure now if the SMT8 can overide the MPI O2 Sensor
Dicktator is a stand alone ECU.
They not like for like in comparisons.
I doubt piggybacks are sold on their own ( probably only through a dealer who is the installer)
Dicktator can be DIY installed. but requires understanding of setting the trigger angles and so on to get started.
You mention MPI, MPI systems did come with issues way back when people used to put unchips on them, not sure now if the SMT8 can overide the MPI O2 Sensor
- missioner
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Re: Fuel system info
Also carb heads don't play well with EFI intakes even with an adaptor plate. The shape of the ports on the head are what fights with you in this case.
For reasons, the EFI head is designed for the injector to spray atomised fuel directly at the valve. Carb heads physically are unable to make that happen, the top of the port is directly in front of the injector tip and would block the fuels path to the valves. Then there is the issue of getting it to seal.
If you are trying to convert an old carb motor to EFI, 2 things; change the head and stay the "F" away from the Shurlok MPi shite. It will make you hate your car and your life.
Stand alone ECU for the win.
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For reasons, the EFI head is designed for the injector to spray atomised fuel directly at the valve. Carb heads physically are unable to make that happen, the top of the port is directly in front of the injector tip and would block the fuels path to the valves. Then there is the issue of getting it to seal.
If you are trying to convert an old carb motor to EFI, 2 things; change the head and stay the "F" away from the Shurlok MPi shite. It will make you hate your car and your life.
Stand alone ECU for the win.
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'87 Golf 1 Olde Skewl OEM+
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Re: Fuel system info
Thanks for the response gents ,
Basically my thought reason was to plan ahead and see what my limitations are etc. What I need to set money aside for because I have a 2008 Citi Rox 1.4i that developed 2 things, the first is a scratching noise that sounds like it's only a third of a revolution or a specific piston that maybe had an issue inside the cylinder, number 2 developed after a trip from Bronkies, above 3500rpm it sounds like there is a plastic thing loose inside the block, it's somewhat of a rattle.
So in the essence I figured let me get a game plan down before I opened up the STD block and have a look thinking after my inspections I'd have a clear indication of what I need to do as I already have a full on 1800 engine ready but I don't have papers for it and I'll need that for insurance purposes etc. So the most expensive plan would've been covering the 1400 Fi to 1800 Fi using the carb head.
After taking the head of and literally going through it per valve my father and I couldn't find anything that looked like it was damaged, a little pitting on the exhaust valve seats, some carbon on the valve faces but that's it.
Cylinder bores are all still shiny,no score marks,no visible damage. The sub assembly is still in the block,sump is off. There is a windage tray In the sump,I found there was a piece of plastic that basically Holds the tray to the oil pickup that had one of the fingers or clips that was loose.
Just using a flat screen driver I basically wanted to see if there was movement in the crank axially so using the flat as a pry bar I moved it about all seemed well except I found that Conrod #2 has no left to right play where the other 3 move and you can hear a click as they move... Don't worry I didn't use much force , just enough to see if it moved not to force it out of place or damage the caps.
In the oil I found some silicon debris or gasket maker but it was little, like 3 pieces.
I can see metallic in the oil which is obviously not a good sign as the car has less than 500km on it since the Bronkies trip and I had done a service a week before.
I did a compression check before stripping to see if I had a clear indication , the values were...
Cylinder 1 -10bar (just over 140psi)
Cylinder 2 - 9.5 bar ( 130psi)
Cylinder 3 - 9.5bar (just over 130psi)
Cylinder 4 - 10.5 bar (150 psi)
I did squirt in some oil before checking the compression.
Any ideas of what it could be? I was told the first noise could be my intermediate shaft bearing , the second rattling noise is definitely engine noise Anne I made sure all the usual things like distributor clamp and so on is fastened down.
Even using a mechanics stethoscope doesn't help much because sound travels through the block.
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Basically my thought reason was to plan ahead and see what my limitations are etc. What I need to set money aside for because I have a 2008 Citi Rox 1.4i that developed 2 things, the first is a scratching noise that sounds like it's only a third of a revolution or a specific piston that maybe had an issue inside the cylinder, number 2 developed after a trip from Bronkies, above 3500rpm it sounds like there is a plastic thing loose inside the block, it's somewhat of a rattle.
So in the essence I figured let me get a game plan down before I opened up the STD block and have a look thinking after my inspections I'd have a clear indication of what I need to do as I already have a full on 1800 engine ready but I don't have papers for it and I'll need that for insurance purposes etc. So the most expensive plan would've been covering the 1400 Fi to 1800 Fi using the carb head.
After taking the head of and literally going through it per valve my father and I couldn't find anything that looked like it was damaged, a little pitting on the exhaust valve seats, some carbon on the valve faces but that's it.
Cylinder bores are all still shiny,no score marks,no visible damage. The sub assembly is still in the block,sump is off. There is a windage tray In the sump,I found there was a piece of plastic that basically Holds the tray to the oil pickup that had one of the fingers or clips that was loose.
Just using a flat screen driver I basically wanted to see if there was movement in the crank axially so using the flat as a pry bar I moved it about all seemed well except I found that Conrod #2 has no left to right play where the other 3 move and you can hear a click as they move... Don't worry I didn't use much force , just enough to see if it moved not to force it out of place or damage the caps.
In the oil I found some silicon debris or gasket maker but it was little, like 3 pieces.
I can see metallic in the oil which is obviously not a good sign as the car has less than 500km on it since the Bronkies trip and I had done a service a week before.
I did a compression check before stripping to see if I had a clear indication , the values were...
Cylinder 1 -10bar (just over 140psi)
Cylinder 2 - 9.5 bar ( 130psi)
Cylinder 3 - 9.5bar (just over 130psi)
Cylinder 4 - 10.5 bar (150 psi)
I did squirt in some oil before checking the compression.
Any ideas of what it could be? I was told the first noise could be my intermediate shaft bearing , the second rattling noise is definitely engine noise Anne I made sure all the usual things like distributor clamp and so on is fastened down.
Even using a mechanics stethoscope doesn't help much because sound travels through the block.
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Re: Fuel system info
Did you check if its the waterpump and impeller in the waterpump ?
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Re: Fuel system info
I'm gonna feel so stupid if it is the water pump
I didn't check it but I'll have a look at it today
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I didn't check it but I'll have a look at it today
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Re: Fuel system info
Busy checking the water pump now,impeller and housing is clean but the bearing inside is rough and also I've got about 0.60mm of total play axially or back and forth if the shaft is parallel to my eyes. By rough I mean it isn't smooth but it does turn fine without any odd noises.
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