Hi guys.
I made some kind of a rookie mistake. On my 1.6 Mk1 Golf, I took 5mm of the block. Now I have a cam belt tensioner problem. I have phoned Spares shops, can't seem to find a shorter belt that will tension. Does anybody know of a bigger tensioner pulley that is available that I can use?
Help will be highly appreciated
Block skimmed a little too much
- Gts88
- Cadet
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- Car Make: VW
- Car Model: Citi
- Location: Steelpoort, Limpopo
Re: Block skimmed a little too much
Have you tried Gates themselves?? They manufacture these belts and might have custom sized belts.... Even BMG/Fenner......
Otherwise custom tensioner will be the only way out....
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Otherwise custom tensioner will be the only way out....
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- Jetta2
- Field Marshal
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Re: Block skimmed a little too much
If it was me, I would assemble the motor and check everything first, especially if the pistons will stick out above the deck and by how much before worrying about a simple belt or tensioner.
Ryan Demoser
1996 Mk3 Golf VR6
2017 Caddy Maxi Crew Bus 2.0 TDI
2013 Aprilia RSV4 track toy
2021 Aprilia RS660 road bike
1996 Mk3 Golf VR6
2017 Caddy Maxi Crew Bus 2.0 TDI
2013 Aprilia RSV4 track toy
2021 Aprilia RS660 road bike
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- Enlisted
- Posts: 2
- Registered for: 4 years 1 month
Re: Block skimmed a little too much
Motor has been assembled, pistons are flush with the block. That's what I wanted, but ja, did not think the tensioner problem would jump up
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- Colonel
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Re: Block skimmed a little too much
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- missioner
- Major
- Posts: 3987
- Registered for: 10 years 3 months
- Car Make: VW
- Car Model: '87 MK1 Golf Citi
Re: Block skimmed a little too much
Your issues have just started.
5mm is a massive amount to remove from the block.
Cambelt length is your first problem, illustrated by the tensioner not being able to go far enough to hold the belt on. Going for a shorter belt won't help because the tooth count is worked out to keep the motor timed.
You have also massively decreased displacement of your motor, engines are very much a more is better type of machine. Please share what pistons and rods you have used and what you expect to achieve with this engine.
If ever I have ever had to skim a block, due to corrosion etc, the most I've ever removed was 0.4mm. just enough to clean it up. The reason is due to the webbing that supports the bores around the block surface. If you remove too much the cylinders can flex and will destroy the pistons at high torque and revs. Guys reinforce stock blocks to prevent this issue in race cars and you have removed most of the material doing that work.
Another issue is the water ports and whether they are still the right size and line up with the head and gasket. If there is even a small variation outside of the design you will have constant issues with blowing head gaskets. I have seen this many times on heads that have corroded water ports, the gaskets last only a short while, even when the ports are welded smaller to mitigate the problem. It's never right again.
I'm sure there are more gremlins lurking inside your motor, waiting to pounce. Without more details it's going to be hard to predict what is going to happen first.
That video link in the previous post is related to long block motors, yours is a short block. The fix is like not going to work quite the same. The blocks are a little different in terms of construction. Caution would be advised before following the directions given.
Sent from my ***-L22 using Tapatalk
5mm is a massive amount to remove from the block.
Cambelt length is your first problem, illustrated by the tensioner not being able to go far enough to hold the belt on. Going for a shorter belt won't help because the tooth count is worked out to keep the motor timed.
You have also massively decreased displacement of your motor, engines are very much a more is better type of machine. Please share what pistons and rods you have used and what you expect to achieve with this engine.
If ever I have ever had to skim a block, due to corrosion etc, the most I've ever removed was 0.4mm. just enough to clean it up. The reason is due to the webbing that supports the bores around the block surface. If you remove too much the cylinders can flex and will destroy the pistons at high torque and revs. Guys reinforce stock blocks to prevent this issue in race cars and you have removed most of the material doing that work.
Another issue is the water ports and whether they are still the right size and line up with the head and gasket. If there is even a small variation outside of the design you will have constant issues with blowing head gaskets. I have seen this many times on heads that have corroded water ports, the gaskets last only a short while, even when the ports are welded smaller to mitigate the problem. It's never right again.
I'm sure there are more gremlins lurking inside your motor, waiting to pounce. Without more details it's going to be hard to predict what is going to happen first.
That video link in the previous post is related to long block motors, yours is a short block. The fix is like not going to work quite the same. The blocks are a little different in terms of construction. Caution would be advised before following the directions given.
Sent from my ***-L22 using Tapatalk
'87 Golf 1 Olde Skewl OEM+