Vw 2e crank

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Ameer
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Vw 2e crank

Post by Ameer »

Hi guys, trust everyone is well.

I’m busy with my first rebuild ever, trying to figure it out as I go along.

I’m having difficulty identifying the crank in my sub assembly, reason to believe it’s not a 2l crank as the pistons do not line up flush with the deck. I have attached some pictures to try help identify it.

How do I know whether the crank is forged or cast? Is this the right crank I’m using, I don’t want to skim on the deck.

Please assist and any rebuild pointers would be appreciated, also diagrams and technical drawings would be a major help.

Will be posting as I go along with my build and hopefully do a full build thread hereafter.

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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by panic-mechanic »

cast 2l crank.
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by PapaJo »

Is the block cracked at the hole where the oil pump shaft passes through the block?
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by Ameer »

Any reason why the pistons don’t come up flush with the deck? Or is this normal for Vw 2l engines?

Will check if that’s a crack by the oil pump hole, if it is, what do I do ?

Bought the motor off gumtree, so yeah not entirely sure how original it is haha

Thanks for assisting

Will post further photos tomorrow


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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by PapaJo »

Ameer wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:21 pm Any reason why the pistons don’t come up flush with the deck? Or is this normal for Vw 2l engines?

Will check if that’s a crack by the oil pump hole, if it is, what do I do ? Image

Bought the motor off gumtree, so yeah not entirely sure how original it is haha

Thanks for assisting

Will post further photos tomorrow


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Wrong pistons in block

If it is cracked, take it back to seller as it will be of no good to you unless you use it as spares and throw away the block.
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by panic-mechanic »

Wrong pistons, wrong rods. Many possible reasons. The area that displays a crack will have no effect on how the motor runs, just make sure it does not come loose and and up in the motor.
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by Ameer »

What would the correct piston dimensions and specifications be?
Also what would be the correct rod dimensions & specifications?

Basically seems like im going to need to buy a new lower end haha unfortunate me, would it be advisable to get new pistons and rods or is there anybody who has a set laying around which isn't in us? Help a brother out please...

All i want is a daily 8v which isnt going to break month to month
Ameer
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by Ameer »

What would the correct piston dimensions and specifications be?
Also what would be the correct rod dimensions & specifications?

Basically seems like im going to need to buy a new lower end haha unfortunate me, would it be advisable to get new pistons and rods or is there anybody who has a set laying around which isn't in us? Help a brother out please...

All i want is a daily 8v which isnt going to break month to month :shock:
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by missioner »

Just for a lark, measure the distance from the top of the piston at bottom dead center and again at top dead center.

Dont have to be super accurate, even a normal plastic ruler will work.
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by Ameer »

So I’ve checked up on that crack and attached a photo, it certainly is a crack ImageImage what do I do now?

Also attached pictures with codes on the block, hopefully it can assist with you guys guiding me and saying If I even have a 2E block Image

Finally I have measured the pistons by the deck, advise if I measure correctly.. measured to the highest point on the piston?

TDC: 4mm
BDC: 91mm

These are approximate measurements, I will take more accurate measurements tomorrow, had to take the measurements in a rush

Image

Image

Image



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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by PapaJo »

First time I see EVR code block.

91-4mm give you 87mm and closest VW crank to that is 86.4mm for a 1800 crank.
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by Ameer »

That’s what’s confused me cause I didn’t see any 2E code, could it be an import block?

Panic mechanic mentioned it’s a 2l crank?

Not sure what is supposed to be my next move, please help


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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by panic-mechanic »

Ev is mk1 or mk2 gti 1.8. R was stamped on it if it was factory reconned at some point.
It's definitely a 2l crank and that piece of the blok is where it would touch if you don't machine it away correctly to swing the bigger crank. Again the crack is not a big issue but yes you have a half assed mix and match Affair. definitely not a 2E which is a long block. this is a short block.
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by Ameer »

Jeez panic mechanic always seems to come to the rescue with the answers haha

So is that a good or bad sign that I have such a wild Frankenstein build going on? Do I scrap this sub assembly and search for a new lower end?

What sort of power could I expect if I piece everything back together and slap it in the car?

Also in the pictures attached, what head do I have? Considering that this is wild ass mix..

Image

Image

Image


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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by PapaJo »

To be honest the only way you will know how much power this Frankenstein build will make is to strip it completely, post pictures of the pistons and rods in the block now to make it identifiable.

I have asked for piston pictures before.

Myself and Panic stated wrong pistons to be the cause of the pistons not sitting flush in the block. With current measurements, that motor will make zero power.

Panic has stated that you can use the block and just remove the cracked piece to prevent it from getting into any moving parts way.

You are not following our advise or giving pictures as we request to assist you. Still you want assistance and asking more questions. We will answer questions and assist if we get the information requested. We keep repeating comments on this thread. Are you actually building this motor or just posting and asking questions here to get your post count up?
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by panic-mechanic »

Yeah thebonlythe only head picture I really want you have not taken and thatbis thenone of the combustion chamber. Yes also the piston side of the block and even beter an actual piston, out of the block
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by PapaJo »

The head code is from 2e motor derived from this thread.
https://vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=112893

048 103 373

Cam lobe edges seems not chamfered, possible cut cam in there. Is there any markings engraved or stamped on the rear end of the cam?
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by missioner »

Yup agree with previous statements about the block.

Definately a 1.8 bottom.

Cylinder bore diameter? Piston pictures?

The monster Dr Frankenstein created was a success, I think this may have been an earlier attempt.

The statement the Good Doctor made about the monster being alive gives weight to the argument.
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Ameer
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by Ameer »

Back from the land of reality of bills and payments

Apologies for laying dormant, I haven’t had much time to give my little project some much needed attention. However I think I have gotten the photos which guys have been asking for.

I also however have thrown the out the 1.8 block and replaced it with a different block.i

I now have 2 cranks, 2 heads, 2 sets of pistons and rods but only one block Image

I will be getting the 2nd head and piston set within this week

Please assist in mixing and matching, anybody that I could be referred to in Cape Town would be appreciated

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImage


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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by PapaJo »

Provide more info on the pistons and rods. I can see pistons are 0,5 oversize, but have to guess the compression height. Measure the piston compression height and also rid length ctc.
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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by Ameer »

Is there any actual difference between the 2 cranks I have? I want to send everything away to the machine shop, just not entirely sure which crank I should be using and why?


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Re: Vw 2e crank

Post by missioner »

Ameer wrote:Is there any actual difference between the 2 cranks I have? I want to send everything away to the machine shop, just not entirely sure which crank I should be using and why?


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If you are not sure, also going by the scant info provided, I say send both. Let them dummy assemble the motor to check which crank will work best.

If they both can work, then get the cranks measured to see which is in better condition.

Obvious after that.
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