SHIELD Professional Series

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Spelwan88
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SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Spelwan88 »

Hi guys,

So I'm thinking of purchasing Shield SP4 Machine Glaze and SP7 Instant Detailer.

Anyone has any experience using these products and what are your opinions about it?
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by DieterMK5 »

Instant detailer isn’t too bad. Slightly oilier than other brands I have used but has a decent scent too, and for like R50 for 750ml you can’t go too wrong.

Can’t comment on the SP4 glaze as I have never used it


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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Spelwan88 »

I'm fairly new to the world of proper detailing so what would be the best method of applying the instant detailer?
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by DieterMK5 »

There are a vast array of uses for a quick Detailer. From using it as a priming agent for compounding/polishing to spot cleaning and claying etc


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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Spelwan88 »

This is how I was planning on detailing the exterior of my car:

Step 1:
Two bucket method wash and dry + windows etc.(done rigorously).

Step 2:
Use machine glaze with a foam applicator on a polishing machine.

NOW should I use an instant detailer after this or can I use another coat of shield Carnauba Paste wax before using the instant detailer?
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Rsi huntered »

I Havent used that Glaze but this should be an application process.

1. Wash Vehicle with PH Neutral shampoo, Proper wash mitt and 3 bucket(1 for wheels only, 1 for soapy water, 1 clean water)
2. Mist you drying towel and use the detail spray to help lube the paint while wiping the water off your car.
3. Preferably use the micro fibre applicator to apply the glaze(dont use a lot on the applicator) rub all over the car, wait for it to haze then take remove.
4. buff off the car.

Just a side note...... Glazes don't really last long as a protection, should last merely a few weeks depending on washing techniques, and if your expectation of a glaze is to wipe out your swirls(as a lot of advertisements show :grin: :fear: then this is the wrong product)

Wax can be applied after an application of glaze ( read the curing time for the glaze before applying a wax over it :hi: )
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by lawrence »

SP4 has abrasives in it http://shieldprofessional.co.za/wp-cont ... -Rev-1.pdf - Aluminium oxide to be precise.

I am not sure how aggressive they are so for all I know it could be a compound (aggressive) or polish (less so). As always, use the least aggressive method first... I suspect it is a finishing type polish, but don't know for sure.

This is one of the inherent problems in the industry.... people calling things whatever they want with no standardization.... so for most of us we think of a glaze as a filler used to temporarily mask some swirls... but in this case, it actually has NO fillers... and is abrasive, so some poor sod is gonna apply this over and over thinking he's doing no harm, when in fact the opposite is true :mad: :bang:

The only time I ever see a need for a quick detailer is as a drying aid (spritz on the towel to add lubricity). Some okes are comfortable using it to remove LIGHT dust - I'm not really. If the car is dirty, wash it properly, IMO anyway. As for using it to prime a pad, I actually prefer not to use something like a QD, but use the polish itself instead - I find this helps reduce oversaturation, which leads to inferior results and accelerated pad degradation.

In terms of application of QD's it is almost always to spray into the towel, wipe over the surface, flip towel to a clean side and wipe away any residue.

If I was you I would:

Wash and dry (use QD as a drying aid when paint is in good nick, otherwise forgo it)
Decontaminate
Apply the SP4 with a foam polishing pad to your working section making 6 overlapping section passes
Wipe off the residue before it dries
Repeat over all sections of the car
Then apply some form of protection (wax, sealant or coating)

What polishing machine do you intend using?
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Zubair »

SP4 isn’t a glaze, its an abrasive high gloss finishing polish as Lawrence mentioned. Its cut will be dependent on the pad selection.
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by ThatBloke »

I've used the Shield Professional range, very good stuff especially considering the price.

The silicone free dressing is top notch, best I've used.
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Kavi4GP »

lawrence wrote:SP4 has abrasives in it http://shieldprofessional.co.za/wp-cont ... -Rev-1.pdf - Aluminium oxide to be precise.

I am not sure how aggressive they are so for all I know it could be a compound (aggressive) or polish (less so). As always, use the least aggressive method first... I suspect it is a finishing type polish, but don't know for sure.

This is one of the inherent problems in the industry.... people calling things whatever they want with no standardization.... so for most of us we think of a glaze as a filler used to temporarily mask some swirls... but in this case, it actually has NO fillers... and is abrasive, so some poor sod is gonna apply this over and over thinking he's doing no harm, when in fact the opposite is true :mad: :bang:

The only time I ever see a need for a quick detailer is as a drying aid (spritz on the towel to add lubricity). Some okes are comfortable using it to remove LIGHT dust - I'm not really. If the car is dirty, wash it properly, IMO anyway. As for using it to prime a pad, I actually prefer not to use something like a QD, but use the polish itself instead - I find this helps reduce oversaturation, which leads to inferior results and accelerated pad degradation.

In terms of application of QD's it is almost always to spray into the towel, wipe over the surface, flip towel to a clean side and wipe away any residue.

If I was you I would:

Wash and dry (use QD as a drying aid when paint is in good nick, otherwise forgo it)
Decontaminate
Apply the SP4 with a foam polishing pad to your working section making 6 overlapping section passes
Wipe off the residue before it dries
Repeat over all sections of the car
Then apply some form of protection (wax, sealant or coating)

What polishing machine do you intend using?
Quick question is detail spray ok to remove bird crap with(sprayed on quality microfiber) ? Just think its a waste to was the whole car every time a bird decides to be a twat.

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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Rsi huntered »

lawrence wrote:SP4 has abrasives in it http://shieldprofessional.co.za/wp-cont ... -Rev-1.pdf - Aluminium oxide to be precise.

I am not sure how aggressive they are so for all I know it could be a compound (aggressive) or polish (less so). As always, use the least aggressive method first... I suspect it is a finishing type polish, but don't know for sure.

This is one of the inherent problems in the industry.... people calling things whatever they want with no standardization.... so for most of us we think of a glaze as a filler used to temporarily mask some swirls... but in this case, it actually has NO fillers... and is abrasive, so some poor sod is gonna apply this over and over thinking he's doing no harm, when in fact the opposite is true :mad: :bang:

The only time I ever see a need for a quick detailer is as a drying aid (spritz on the towel to add lubricity). Some okes are comfortable using it to remove LIGHT dust - I'm not really. If the car is dirty, wash it properly, IMO anyway. As for using it to prime a pad, I actually prefer not to use something like a QD, but use the polish itself instead - I find this helps reduce oversaturation, which leads to inferior results and accelerated pad degradation.

In terms of application of QD's it is almost always to spray into the towel, wipe over the surface, flip towel to a clean side and wipe away any residue.

If I was you I would:

Wash and dry (use QD as a drying aid when paint is in good nick, otherwise forgo it)
Decontaminate
Apply the SP4 with a foam polishing pad to your working section making 6 overlapping section passes
Wipe off the residue before it dries
Repeat over all sections of the car
Then apply some form of protection (wax, sealant or coating)

What polishing machine do you intend using?
^^^^ Good to know :twisted: :twisted:
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Rsi huntered »

Kavi4GP wrote:
lawrence wrote:SP4 has abrasives in it http://shieldprofessional.co.za/wp-cont ... -Rev-1.pdf - Aluminium oxide to be precise.

I am not sure how aggressive they are so for all I know it could be a compound (aggressive) or polish (less so). As always, use the least aggressive method first... I suspect it is a finishing type polish, but don't know for sure.

This is one of the inherent problems in the industry.... people calling things whatever they want with no standardization.... so for most of us we think of a glaze as a filler used to temporarily mask some swirls... but in this case, it actually has NO fillers... and is abrasive, so some poor sod is gonna apply this over and over thinking he's doing no harm, when in fact the opposite is true :mad: :bang:

The only time I ever see a need for a quick detailer is as a drying aid (spritz on the towel to add lubricity). Some okes are comfortable using it to remove LIGHT dust - I'm not really. If the car is dirty, wash it properly, IMO anyway. As for using it to prime a pad, I actually prefer not to use something like a QD, but use the polish itself instead - I find this helps reduce oversaturation, which leads to inferior results and accelerated pad degradation.

In terms of application of QD's it is almost always to spray into the towel, wipe over the surface, flip towel to a clean side and wipe away any residue.

If I was you I would:

Wash and dry (use QD as a drying aid when paint is in good nick, otherwise forgo it)
Decontaminate
Apply the SP4 with a foam polishing pad to your working section making 6 overlapping section passes
Wipe off the residue before it dries
Repeat over all sections of the car
Then apply some form of protection (wax, sealant or coating)

What polishing machine do you intend using?
Quick question is detail spray ok to remove bird crap with(sprayed on quality microfiber) ? Just think its a waste to was the whole car every time a bird decides to be a twat.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
This is what I do, I take a hand full of 2 ply toilet roll :lol: dip it in water leave it for about 20/30 seconds on the bird poop, then DAB(not rub) DAB it on the bird poop..... if you have enough wax/sealant, it will literally just come off. But off course don't leave it on you paint long.
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Kavi4GP »

Rsi huntered wrote:
Kavi4GP wrote:
lawrence wrote:SP4 has abrasives in it http://shieldprofessional.co.za/wp-cont ... -Rev-1.pdf - Aluminium oxide to be precise.

I am not sure how aggressive they are so for all I know it could be a compound (aggressive) or polish (less so). As always, use the least aggressive method first... I suspect it is a finishing type polish, but don't know for sure.

This is one of the inherent problems in the industry.... people calling things whatever they want with no standardization.... so for most of us we think of a glaze as a filler used to temporarily mask some swirls... but in this case, it actually has NO fillers... and is abrasive, so some poor sod is gonna apply this over and over thinking he's doing no harm, when in fact the opposite is true :mad: :bang:

The only time I ever see a need for a quick detailer is as a drying aid (spritz on the towel to add lubricity). Some okes are comfortable using it to remove LIGHT dust - I'm not really. If the car is dirty, wash it properly, IMO anyway. As for using it to prime a pad, I actually prefer not to use something like a QD, but use the polish itself instead - I find this helps reduce oversaturation, which leads to inferior results and accelerated pad degradation.

In terms of application of QD's it is almost always to spray into the towel, wipe over the surface, flip towel to a clean side and wipe away any residue.

If I was you I would:

Wash and dry (use QD as a drying aid when paint is in good nick, otherwise forgo it)
Decontaminate
Apply the SP4 with a foam polishing pad to your working section making 6 overlapping section passes
Wipe off the residue before it dries
Repeat over all sections of the car
Then apply some form of protection (wax, sealant or coating)

What polishing machine do you intend using?
Quick question is detail spray ok to remove bird crap with(sprayed on quality microfiber) ? Just think its a waste to was the whole car every time a bird decides to be a twat.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
This is what I do, I take a hand full of 2 ply toilet roll Image dip it in water leave it for about 20/30 seconds on the bird poop, then DAB(not rub) DAB it on the bird poop..... if you have enough wax/sealant, it will literally just come off. But off course don't leave it on you paint long.
I dont rub it of, just i always keep a microfiber and detail spray in the boot(its a corolla) so what i usually do is spray around it and king of let the cloth pull with the fibres. The clothes get rotated and cleaned every week or so and generally are clean.

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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Rsi huntered »

you can use Detail spray, buts you honestly (IMO) wasting it, water will work just fine and the nice thing about using the water is that you don't have to worry how much you use on the toilet roll :grin: .

I use toilet roll cause the texture is really really soft when a lot of water is soaked in it, and little rinsing after on that spot to take out what ever is left back.
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Rsi huntered »

oh and don't do this in the sun, preferably in the shade :hi:
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by lawrence »

Kavi4GP wrote:Quick question is detail spray ok to remove bird crap with(sprayed on quality microfiber) ? Just think its a waste to was the whole car every time a bird decides to be a twat.

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Ok so when it comes to dealing with bird bombs here are a few tips:

1. Bird droppings are not safe/healthy so make sure you use a set of nitrile gloves unless you are ok with possibly picking up some avian disease.

2. The damage that can be done by a bird dropping is far, far worse than the scratches you may put into the paint removing a dropping from a dirt car. Just look at the effects of the bird droppings on this car. I'd rather get them off and possible cause a few swirls in the process, than leave it for any length of time to etch into the paint.

As an example, look at this, taken from this write up http://vwclub.co.za/forum/posting.php?m ... &p=2539251

This bird dropping had etched really deep into the paint and sadly is very much still visible. I could probably have wet-sanded it out but that's not really in the best interest of a daily driver.

Image

Image

Luckily this one wasn't etched as deep

Image

Image


3. Getting the droppings off sooner than later will help. The longer it dries the harder it is to remove, and the more likely it will have etched into the clear coat.

4. The better the condition of your paint (i.e. lack of swirls, no contamination, good protection) the easier the droppings will come off the car. In some cases, simply hitting the area with either a hose pipe, or some water out of a handheld pump sprayer is all that is needed. If that doesn't work, then you can use a MF towel to create a little dam wall type vibe around the dropping, and flood the area with water/QD to allow it to start softening up the dropping. The idea of using toilet paper could work too, although I have not tried it.

5. Then, don't wipe the droppings off the paint, but instead try and lift the droppings off - remember the droppings could have seeds or bits of sand in them too, along with the uric acid and who knows what other nasties. This is why I prefer a QD over plain water, because it offers some lubrication to help minimize swirls when removing the droppings.
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Kavi4GP »

lawrence wrote:
Kavi4GP wrote:Quick question is detail spray ok to remove bird crap with(sprayed on quality microfiber) ? Just think its a waste to was the whole car every time a bird decides to be a twat.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Ok so when it comes to dealing with bird bombs here are a few tips:

1. Bird droppings are not safe/healthy so make sure you use a set of nitrile gloves unless you are ok with possibly picking up some avian disease.

2. The damage that can be done by a bird dropping is far, far worse than the scratches you may put into the paint removing a dropping from a dirt car. Just look at the effects of the bird droppings on this car. I'd rather get them off and possible cause a few swirls in the process, than leave it for any length of time to etch into the paint.

As an example, look at this, taken from this write up http://vwclub.co.za/forum/posting.php?m ... &p=2539251

This bird dropping had etched really deep into the paint and sadly is very much still visible. I could probably have wet-sanded it out but that's not really in the best interest of a daily driver.

Image

Image

Luckily this one wasn't etched as deep

Image

Image


3. Getting the droppings off sooner than later will help. The longer it dries the harder it is to remove, and the more likely it will have etched into the clear coat.

4. The better the condition of your paint (i.e. lack of swirls, no contamination, good protection) the easier the droppings will come off the car. In some cases, simply hitting the area with either a hose pipe, or some water out of a handheld pump sprayer is all that is needed. If that doesn't work, then you can use a MF towel to create a little dam wall type vibe around the dropping, and flood the area with water/QD to allow it to start softening up the dropping. The idea of using toilet paper could work too, although I have not tried it.

5. Then, don't wipe the droppings off the paint, but instead try and lift the droppings off - remember the droppings could have seeds or bits of sand in them too, along with the uric acid and who knows what other nasties. This is why I prefer a QD over plain water, because it offers some lubrication to help minimize swirls when removing the droppings.
Thanks for the guidance, i dont mond using QD as its with me all the time

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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Showtime Detailing »

:!offtopic: Bird poop brings good luck... crazy how some people park under a tree for shade!
Thanks for the valuable insight Lawrence
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Spelwan88 »

Hi guys

So I gave the stuff a bash yesterday and it worked pretty well.

Used the QD as a drying agent and it gave off a nice glossy finish. However I just found it to be a little "watery" in comparison to other brands of QD that I've come across before.

I applied the machine glaze with a foam polishing pad and it had a more of a polishing effect to it and it really lifted a lot of contaminants that kind of hazed the paint.

I thought of sealing the glaze with a carnubba polish but unfortunately I did not realise that the tin was empty so in a month or so I'll do a full detail and do the extra step as well.

The silicone free dressing works like a charm as usual.

Overall for the price of the products you get quite a bit of bang for your buck
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by lawrence »

Please rememeber:

Carnuba based products are WAXES, designed to PROTECT your paint, by offering a hydrophobic surface.
POLISH is a product containing ABRASIVE particles to sand away your paint, forever.
CLAY is a product designed to remove CONTAMINATION from the paint

Wax as much as you want.
Polish as little as possible.
Never decontaminate without polishing afterwards
Never polish without decontaminating first
Never try polish off contamination

When you come to do the car in a months time you should NOT need to decon or polish, just wash and protect.

Again, you should NOT polish your car often, because every time you do, you make the paint thinner and thinner. You can, and should, keep it protected at all times (so the shorter your protection lasts, the more often you need to re-apply it).
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Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by Spelwan88 »

lawrence wrote:Please rememeber:

Carnuba based products are WAXES, designed to PROTECT your paint, by offering a hydrophobic surface.
POLISH is a product containing ABRASIVE particles to sand away your paint, forever.
CLAY is a product designed to remove CONTAMINATION from the paint

Wax as much as you want.
Polish as little as possible.
Never decontaminate without polishing afterwards
Never polish without decontaminating first
Never try polish off contamination

When you come to do the car in a months time you should NOT need to decon or polish, just wash and protect.

Again, you should NOT polish your car often, because every time you do, you make the paint thinner and thinner. You can, and should, keep it protected at all times (so the shorter your protection lasts, the more often you need to re-apply it).
Hectic dude. Did not know any of this. Thanks for the heads up! This forum is the best
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Car Model: Sea Blue Polo Vivo
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Location: Durban

Re: SHIELD Professional Series

Post by lawrence »

Make sure you read through this thread.

http://vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=166322

It should help you better understand the different types of products and what they do.

Shout if you have any more questions
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