1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

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GaVeN
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1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by GaVeN »

As it goes, if you are an IT technician, your PC at home is always in pieces. Similar, when you're a mechanic, your car never seems to get as much attention as a client's car.
This is the case with this little MK1. Some of you will know it from its build & evolution over the past 7-8 years. Check it out here: http://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic ... +%26+cream

The owner is forever busy with client's cars, customising, panelbeating, respraying etc. to get their cars looking great, and in the process neglect his own.

On Friday, it got a little bit of attention in the paint department by doing the black-out on the doors and rear window in a Black magic pearl from the SEAT stable( As he's already done the front chin spoiler & grill in the same colour).
I had a look at the paintwork & actually felt extremely sorry for the car. I decided to give the owner an early birthday gift by restoring the paintwork, and protecting it.
He has all the knowledge from the spraying, wetsanding & panelshop polishing (I taught him that) But, he has never really understood (Or shown interest) detailing & all of its benefits, or reasons. I guess mainly because with fresh paint you don't seal it up for 90 days, it fell outside of his scope.
So, it was an educational session for him as well.
I had a good time doing this car, as I know its daily tasks, sun exposure & history. It has a very soft spot in my heart, as I have helped build the little car from day 1.
I also have a second part to the birthday gift planned for the owner & the car, so its paint has to be absolutely perfect.

Enough of the ramblings, onto the detail.
The car hasn't seen much attention in the car care department lately, probably hasn't had a clay or wax in a good few months, and is parked in the sun almost all day, every day. This obviously took its toll on it.
The idea was simple, correct the exterior paint, wheels & trim, seal & protect. (Mostly to avoid him doing a bodyshop aggressive polish on it)
Got a late start on Saturday morning, so officially got stuck in around 11:00

Process followed:
- HP rinsed entire exterior
- Foamed with Carchem Luxury shampoo 1:10 solution, left to dwell & attended to the wheels
- Wheels sprayed with Carchem revolt & agitated with a brush
- Tyres sprayed with Carchem Citrus APC 1:1 solution & agitated
- Entire car HP rinsed again
- Washed with 2BM, Carchem luxury shampoo & woolie wash mitt
- HP rinsed again
- Clayed with a medium clay & soapy water solution
- Washed again & HP rinsed for a final time
- Dried with MF towels & intricate areas blown out with compressed air
- Pulled into the garage to inspect paint & test combos
- Due to quite significant oxidation, a medium pad just wasn't doing enough to remove the oxidation & light swirling and not giving that beautiful crisp shine. Went with a Menzerna white firm pad, Menzerna PG1000 & the DA, 3-4 passes per panel proved perfect.
- Followed up by Menzerna yellow medium pad & PG 1000 for refinement (2 passes per panel was just right)
- Sealed each panel with Carchem hard shell, left to sit for 30-45 min per panel, buffed off with a thick pile MF towel
- Buffed off & Collinite #845 applied & left to sit for 30-45min per panel, buffed off with a thick pile MF towel
- Entire car HP rinsed after the correction & sealing process
- One more layer of Collinite #845 applied to painted surfaces & left to sit for an additional 45 min
- Wheels coated with DNA wheel cream & left to sit for 30 min
- Tyres coated with DNA tyre gel & excess buffed off with an old MF towel
- All rubber bumper trim & bootspoiler treated with Wynn's Black back. followed by a protective layer of Collinite #855
- Windows cleaned with Carchem glass cleaner & buffed to a streakless shine
- Entire car buffed off once more with a thick pile MF towel
- Exhaust tip was sprayed with APC 1:1, agitated, followed by steel wool & a polishing cream, HP rinsed & polished with Autosol. DNA wheel cream applied to aid in cleaning in the future

Onto the Before, During & After pictures.



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50/50


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After:

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It was fun doing this one, and it was a very short detail. Took about 9-10 hours, but it was just exterior paintwork correction & protection.
I'll quite possibly give the engine bay a quick sealant & maybe dress the interior this week when he completes some work on it. Will upload some pics of that if/when it happens.

I will get some decent shots of the outcome soon, as it was get cold & wet outside, so couldn't get proper after shots

As always, enjoy & all comments welcome
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by Ahmed.Syed »

So nice.... Like sugar and spice :)

Nice one G
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by DINODENASH »

wow !!
that came out brilliant !! :drool:
what a difference
Sits so lekker :hurray:
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by Rsi huntered »

Nicely Done :hurray: :hurray: :hurray: :troll:

just a few questions :


- Sealed each panel with Carchem hard shell, left to sit for 30-45 min per panel, buffed off with a thick pile MF towel
- Buffed off & Collinite #845 applied & left to sit for 30-45min per panel, buffed off with a thick pile MF towel
- Entire car HP rinsed after the correction & sealing process

^^^^^ was the wash before the 12 hour period or after the 12 hour period, just finding out cause washing before 12 hours periods should affect the bonding process ( or am i incorrect)


- Exhaust tip was sprayed with APC 1:1, agitated, followed by steel wool & a polishing cream, HP rinsed & polished with Autosol. DNA wheel cream applied to aid in cleaning in the future

^^^^^ is that not to harsh, as in if steel wool used and it leave harsh abrasions(pockets) on the finished product (being the exhaust tip) will this not leave those naked pockets to get more grime stuck when in the future?

thanks :hug:
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by GaVeN »

Ahmed.Syed wrote:So nice.... Like sugar and spice :)

Nice one G
Thanks guy
DINODENASH wrote:wow !!
that came out brilliant !! :drool:
what a difference
Sits so lekker :hurray:
Thanks guy
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by GaVeN »

Rsi huntered wrote:Nicely Done :hurray: :hurray: :hurray: :troll:

just a few questions :


- Sealed each panel with Carchem hard shell, left to sit for 30-45 min per panel, buffed off with a thick pile MF towel
- Buffed off & Collinite #845 applied & left to sit for 30-45min per panel, buffed off with a thick pile MF towel
- Entire car HP rinsed after the correction & sealing process

^^^^^ was the wash before the 12 hour period or after the 12 hour period, just finding out cause washing before 12 hours periods should affect the bonding process ( or am i incorrect)

After I correct each panel, I seal with the hard shell sealant to lock the exposed paint in.
I leave this to sit for a minimum of 30-45 min, and buff it off.
I then apply a thin layer of Collinite #845 & leave that to sit for the remainder of the detail until all panels are corrected, sealed & then coated.
Obviously, as you're going along, you have product sling, which if left on will cause its own hassle, so after I have corrected the entire car, and have the entire car coated in a selant wax, I give it a quick pressure rinse to remove any dust/product sling off of the surface, as opposed to just buffing it with a towel and possibly marring the surface in the process. After the rinse is done, I coat the entire vehicle once more in Collinite & leave to sit for 45 min minimum. I then buff that off keeping the vehicle dry for at least an overnight period.
Sealants & even waxes are advanced enough to adhere quite well after a time, and as per the hard shell instructions, 30 minutes is sufficient.
The sealant just does that, seals the paint, and even if I then apply collinite & wash an hour later, anything that the water may have removed, I re-apply by adding an additional layer of Collinite to ensure it stays sealed.
Water, in essence should not strip the coating off of the paint work.
I have a rule of thumb, where I would rather apply 2 or more thin layers of sealant/sealant wax/wax, as opposed to applying one thick coat. This ensures it bonds & cures quicker, as well as gives you the benefit of ensuring the entire panel was coated if you missed a spot in the 1st application of product.



- Exhaust tip was sprayed with APC 1:1, agitated, followed by steel wool & a polishing cream, HP rinsed & polished with Autosol. DNA wheel cream applied to aid in cleaning in the future

^^^^^ is that not to harsh, as in if steel wool used and it leave harsh abrasions(pockets) on the finished product (being the exhaust tip) will this not leave those naked pockets to get more grime stuck when in the future?

This is not that "goldie locks" type steel wool. I use the thin one that looks like a cotton ball. It does abrade the surface in some instances, but it can also aid in polishing up certain metals, but that's a topic for another day.
In this case, the stainless steel tip on the car was severely caked on with Carbon and condensate. The steel wool itself did very little to remove the hardened build-up, hence me resorting to a polishing soap/cream (Which I only do on the rarest of occasions). The outer of the tip was not affected by the steel wool at all, and on the inside of the tip, it is generally very crude when manufactured (Remember, this is not a Remus show piece tip that is crafted & refined massively, it is a run of the mill exhaust shop add-on)
Any micro scratching I caused by the aggressive cleaning was followed up by Autosol metal polish, and sealed off with a coating to ensure a protected surface to help slow down the adhesion of contaminants such as the carbon & condensate mixture.



thanks :hug:
A long winded reply, but hope it addresses your concerns.
They are valid, and in the case of the adherence to paint, if a product is a nano/ceramic/glass coating I would agree that it needs to be baked in & kept dry for a 12-24 hour period. On a sealant or sealant wax, it does the majority of its work in the 1st 30-45 min.
Put it this way, if a wax/sealant wax washes off with normal water after 30 minutes, would you really want that product on your car?
It's just a safe guideline for manufacturers to cover their back sides, because not everywhere in the world do you have good quality water. Generally, Gauteng has excellent quality, with very little alkalines & chlorine type purifiers in. On the more farm areas, you may have higher concentrations of those, which yes, could affect the adherence ability of the product.
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by Rsi huntered »

Thanks Bud......

every time i read something that sounds new to me, i like to ask :grin: so please don't take it as i'm tying to be funny or anything :hug:

Cause sometime the guys misinterpret how the message is being relayed :grin:
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by GaVeN »

Rsi huntered wrote:Thanks Bud......

every time i read something that sounds new to me, i like to ask :grin: so please don't take it as i'm tying to be funny or anything :hug:

Cause sometime the guys misinterpret how the message is being relayed :grin:
Not at all, I appreciate the challenging of the "recommended" or status quo
But as always, everyone seems to want to follow certain things to the T. Imagine if we lived in a world of black/white, with no grey area?

Sometimes, we need to also be practical in our thinking & approach to certain things. In this case, the lesser evil was to rinse the car of any dust & product sling from a sealant wax coated surface, as opposed to buffing the dust that has clinged to the surface of it into the paint, creating marring I just corrected.
If it was in a biological sterile environment, I'd have buffed it off without hesitation, but none of our garages or workshops are sealed off labs where this is possible.
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by uzzi777 »

what a schweeet ride. well done, looks fresh
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by LostEnigma »

GaVeN wrote:(Remember, this is not a Remus show piece tip that is crafted & refined massively, it is a run of the mill exhaust shop add-on)
:lol: I see what you did there :lol:

When can i put through offer to purchase
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by lawrence »

Nicely done bud :hurray:

I'd like to respectfully disagree about how soon you can allow sealants to get wet. For waxes, which for the most part just sit on the paint, these can get wet immediately with no negative effects, however when using sealants these should be kept dry for at least 12 to 24 hours to allow the polymers to completely crosslink - failing to do so can negatively effect the durability of the sealant.
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by GaVeN »

As promised, better pics.

Here are some direct comparisons, enjoy

Wheels:

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Exhaust tip:

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Taillights:


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Roof reflection:

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Rear top view:

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Rear left quarter:

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Front left quarter:

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Front top view:

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Right front quarter view:

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And a few other random shots for some reflection & shine, just because

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PS: The W114 Merc in the back is also due for a little attention soon. And the Vito is running a Lexus V8 motor, with a stupid big exhaust...The sound that Vito makes is :drool:
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by GaVeN »

uzzi777 wrote:what a schweeet ride. well done, looks fresh
Thanks guy, I'll pass the message on to the owner
LostEnigma wrote:
GaVeN wrote:(Remember, this is not a Remus show piece tip that is crafted & refined massively, it is a run of the mill exhaust shop add-on)
:lol: I see what you did there :lol:

When can i put through offer to purchase
If the shoe fits :wink:

Anything is for sale, at the right price
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by mikhail117 »

Super work, as usual bud. Appreciate the time taken to share it with us :hurray: :hurray:
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Re: 1982 Mk1 GLS - By SeventyFourFour

Post by GaVeN »

mikhail117 wrote:Super work, as usual bud. Appreciate the time taken to share it with us :hurray: :hurray:
Thanks for the kind words guy.
It is a special little car for me, and I am always willing to share.
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