Holy balls this magafter chows through a full bottle of soap in seconds.

Well to put things into perspective, using a foam cannon like this http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.ph ... ts_id=1129 I get roughly 3 to 4 applications per 1l bottle, which I assume yours is?

What pressure washer are you connecting it to?

Have you fiddled with the adjustment nozzle to change the amount of product it sucks up out the bottle?

What snow foam are you using?

I had one of those karcher jobbies.

Bought the foam cannon lawrence mentioned above.
There is no comparison.

The karcher one is only like 200 bucks cheaper lately and IMHO the difference is worth it.

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Hi Guys,

Just wanted to know..... so don't bite my head off

What you guys think about using Scotch guard on a Alcentera seat?

Rsi huntered wrote:Hi Guys,

Just wanted to know..... so don't bite my head off

What you guys think about using Scotch guard on a Alcentera seat?

According to this site, it should be fine

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... LeatherFAQ

This may also be an option, although I am not sure if it is safe for Alcantara

http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.ph ... rarmidepu5

lawrence wrote:

Rsi huntered wrote:Hi Guys,

Just wanted to know..... so don't bite my head off

What you guys think about using Scotch guard on a Alcentera seat?

According to this site, it should be fine

[url][/http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... herFAQ/url]

This may also be an option, although I am not sure if it is safe for Alcantara

[url][/http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.ph ... midepu5url]

Thanks Lawrence.......

will try it on a small portion first and check how it works....

Rsi huntered wrote:Hi Guys,

Just wanted to know..... so don't bite my head off

What you guys think about using Scotch guard on a Alcentera seat?

You could always coat the seats with our ceramic pro textile product? Have not use the scotch guard product personally but our product is able to withstand a minimum of 50 washes.

https://vimeo.com/182130039

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Aaaaand done.

41 pages of very good advice. Some things I might need to buy in near future is some AF dressle, AF spitz and Cyclo APC. Seems like everyone has generally had great views on them.

One thing im still determined to do is find a LSP or wax that does not attract dust. I notice when applying 845 a few weeks ago it got very static while buffing off. And with the winds we have here, my car is brown by the 3rd day after i washed. It bugs me , but im to hella scared to wipe it off , for fear of installing swirls

stig wrote:Aaaaand done.

41 pages of very good advice. Some things I might need to buy in near future is some AF dressle, AF spitz and Cyclo APC. Seems like everyone has generally had great views on them.

One thing im still determined to do is find a LSP or wax that does not attract dust. I notice when applying 845 a few weeks ago it got very static while buffing off. And with the winds we have here, my car is brown by the 3rd day after i washed. It bugs me , but im to hella scared to wipe it off , for fear of installing swirls

Good luck finding Autofinesse stuff locally, especially Dressel.... seems like what was once a favorite is now no longer being bought in by
Vish. Last time we chatted he indicated he does have some Spritz left though.

Also, I am finding the Carchem APC to be better than the Cyclo stuff.

As for dust attraction, this article may help provide some insight.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot ... paint.html

Hi Guys,

have not tried it but this is from another forum and posted by NEMO maybe he can give a full review from his side as he must of used the product :

QUOTE :
________________________________________________________
by NEMO » Fri Sep 09, 2016 2:48 pm

All waxes will attract dust..Even the high end waxes. Its the trade of for having that warm glow .

If you looking for a repellent,, use a sealant as opposed to a wax. A good sealant will also last much much longer than a wax.

Also there are new products available... where you dont even need to rub or touch the car to protect it.... just spray and rinse,, car is sealed.

this is enough for one hit... : http://carpro-sa.co.za/index.php/produc ... kes-250ml/

last 3 months..

__________________________________________________________

Bonnet I did/practicing



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Nice - any before pics? What machine. What pads. What polishes?

Any comments or learnings you wanna share?

lawrence wrote:Nice - any before pics? What machine. What pads. What polishes?

Any comments or learnings you wanna share?

Wet sanding then Meguiars M105 compound then M205 polish with hi tech yellow wax, pads used was a wool cutting pad then polishing pad and finishing pad all on a makita rotary machine

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Did this little figo today didnt get much pics gardner washer the car before I arrived

Paint felt really rough and some oil based substance on the car not alot of swirls though and small fine scratches

Used Megs ultimate compound and ultimate polish on a mikita DA and hi tech yellow wax

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Didn't know Makita had a DA? Don't you mean Rotary?

And also using a compound on every car, isn't it maybe a bit harsh?

Would love to see that car done with a rotary parked out in the sun from far.. Any holograms left from the rotary?

We all saw you in the reflection..does it count as a selfie

Nice work Kiran, nice and shiny...

From the sun pics you can tell there is a bit of haze left behind. This indicates that the compound you used might have been too harsh for the paint hardness, you'd probably need another pass with a fine compound.

But I'm sure it looks muuuch better than before, keep at it!

amstel18 wrote:Didn't know Makita had a DA? Don't you mean Rotary?

And also using a compound on every car, isn't it maybe a bit harsh?

Would love to see that car done with a rotary parked out in the sun from far.. Any holograms left from the rotary?

You can actually correct and refine properly with a rotary, but it takes much more work and skill than a DA.

Loads of guys overseas would correct with a rotary and refine with a DA, saves time on really hard paint.

Makita makes a free float dual action/forced rotation DA, theres a knob that you turn to select which mode you require. As for rotaries, they can finish down lsp ready with a jeweled look if you are skilled with one. I have finished black Range Rovers with the softest paint imaginable with a rotary with no holograms in sight under sunlight. A skilled or pro detailer can wield both a DA and rotary without a fuss.

Thanks guys I am still learning and practising alot should get better in time

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The mikita

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This should get me started.




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Le Clue wrote:This should get me started.




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Congrats and Welcome

I would advise getting more pads...... as one per car is not really gona do it

Now for my Question

On a DA machine OR any other machies....Flex....Rupees.....etc

What should be the resting time/periods in-between a detail so that your machine last longer that you over loading it on every detail....

Eg. Use for 1 hour continuous give your machine a break for 5mins.....
Use to 2 Hours continuous, give your machine a break for Xxxxxx Mins

thanks.

Your body will tire out and need rest long before the machines do. All my Flex machines have a temperature cut out in the event you push too hard and they heat up, the Rupes on the otherhand never heat up no matter what. My Shield never took breaks on over 60 full paint corrections it was used on so yeah doubt you can get a polisher to wear out before you do.