yakuza racer wrote:talk to me about it, need to know service intervals, prices to service, if something breaks can i find it locally, etc....
also how do i througoly check the car out, besides jack rear up and see if wheels turn and vagcom it
Every 10k (12 months): oil and oil filter
Every 20k: 10k+ air filter pollen filter, Haldex oil(may be 40k)
Every 40k: 20k+ spark plugs, fuel filter(TBC) Haldex oil and filter
Every 60k: cambelt and tensioner, aux bet. Its is recomended that the water pump be changed (a metal impeller version is availble which resloves the issue of the plastic impeller breaking)
Every 2 years: brake fluid
Audi now have a standard service price schedule which is reasonable considering its the main dealer:
rust along roof rails, this should be covered by audi warrenty but they dont always make good on it but it is still something that you need to look out for: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthr...EASE-POST-HERE
rust along the lower door trims: see sticky: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthr...ll-it-be-yours
xenon headlights pointing to the ground: this will normally be either the sensors mounted to the near side suspension front and rear or the motors within the headlamp (if its the motor it normally only effects one light)
broken window clips (more info needed here)
snapped springs, the ends of the springs can shear off with age (i've had 3 of mine break so far)
ARB collars breaking off, the collars butt up to the mounting bush, the whole bar has to be replace (good time to fit uprated items).
Back up battery for alarm stops holding charge, which can lead to your car alarm going off. A sign to this is 3 bleeps from the rear passenger side of the car. The alarm siren has to be replaced although there is a write up on replacing the battery (further info required). The alarm siren has been updated and a minor mod is required to fit (this might only be on prefacelift models)
Brake sensor behind pedal: this can fail over time, its easy to replace and audi have revised the part to so it might be less common on facelift models
Clutch sensor behind pedal: this can fail over time and lead to the car over reving when the clutch is pedal is depressed
Clutch pedal: a plastic part of the pedalis prone to failure (link needed for repair guide)
concert head unit volume control: this over time (it is related to the amount of time you change volume) will only provide you with the 2 extremes of the volume settings, this can not be fixed the whole head unit requires replacement.
DIS dead pixels, over time lines can be lost on the driver information screen, theres is a fix but it is done at your own risk
DV failing, the standard item may fail over time, the forge 007 is a popular after market option.
Coil packs: this are known to fail, I think the design has been revised so once replaced they dont tend to fail again (TBC)
Breather pipes, vacum pipes: some of these cars are now over 10 years old and over time and heat cycles the plastic pipes split.
Clutch/clutch slave cylinder: this is not so much a common fault but with age and milage this needs to be considered. My slave cylinder let go at 103k, the slave cylinder requires the gear box to be removed to replace, on inspection my clutch needed replacing due to the milage and wear, my fly wheel also required replacing but this is not always the case. If you slave cylinder does fail you'll probably have to replace the clutch due to hydralic fluid getting into the clutch itself. So the advise here is if your replacing your clutch spend a bit more and have the slave cylinder replaced at the same time. Also consider that tyhe clutch may need replacing on an S3 with over 100k on the clock (if its not been replaced). Unsure if this is an indication of the slave cylinder failing but my clutch pedal was heavy before it broke, its now very light.
Thermostat can fail with age, and indication that its gone is the temp gauge on the dash not reaching and sitting at 90. If your temp gauge seems to be erratic this could be a sign that the temp sender has broken. Both are cheap to replace.
Coolant level sensor. Over time these can fail, the annoying thing is you have to replace the header tank as the sensor is built into it. It can sometimes be cleaned. Sign thats its broken, on starting the car the DIS will indicate low coolant even though its not, sometims the warning will disappear after 20-30 seconds. Its also worth checking the cabling to the switch as this can come lose from its plugs.
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-foru ... guide.html